Wednesday, August 5, 2015

THE PA MELTING POT: How ethnic foods survived through mobility - Vietnamese Floating Markets - Part 2








The Melting Pot: SPECIAL COLUMN: Part 2: Vietnamese and the mobility of the Vietnamese “floating markets”


Food and other shopping in the US is much different from shopping in Viet Nam.  We drive to grocery, specialty, clothing, farmers’ markets/stands, etc. to obtain our goods but we don’t have markets like they do in the Mekong Delta!!


In Viet Nam every morning before dawn, farmers and vendors from the surrounding countryside load narrow wooden boats and large-hulled freighters with the recent harvest and other goods. They chug past broad lilies and lotus blooms, through shallow tributaries lined with bamboo houses, to the nearest local market or to park and sell their goods. They paint eyes on the bows of their boats. The arched vessels look toward the sky, while the low-lying local boats peer into their native silt-stained waters.  On each boat, goods are hung on bamboo poles that are called “cay beo”. Hundreds of such poles point sky-wards. Boats also operate like “taxis” which is very convenient for tourists around the region. 


An army of sampans, painted with bright colors (yellows, blues and reds) jockey for position as radiant pineapples, taro root, coconuts, pumpkins, bananas, pomelos (the largest of the citrus fruits, with a thick yellow skin and bitter pulp that resembles grapefruit in flavor), longan (juicy fruit related to the lychee), jackfruit, pineapples,  watermelons, mangoes, durians (a stinky fruit with a divine taste, so they say), bananas, oranges, coconuts,  squash, cabbage, onions, greens, change hands with the speed of light, along with fistfuls of crumpled Vietnamese Dong bills. Besides fruits, local products like snakes, birds, turtles, pot-bellied pigs, etc. are easy to find.

Although they are floating markets, services are available, foods and drinks on small boats twist and turn to serve hungry sellers and buyers. When someone wants to buy the products, they only need to whistle or wave.

Markets can be extremely large: 400 to 500 boats filled with fruits, vegetables, and other products are anchor along the banks of the river.  On the floating markets you not only find people buying and selling, but you will also find floating restaurants, bars, gas stations, and many other stores. Canals in the area are simply the easiest and fastest means of transportation.
Shoppers come by land and water, and as they stumble from boat to boat, they often interrupt their shopping to enjoy bowls of noodles on open fires in the special ‘fast food’ sampans.

Products favored by urban gastronomers would be seafood, wild birds, cao (regional Vietnamese dish made with noodles, pork, and local greens), cu dat (specialty dishes), stork and dove which are sold at the market. Other dishes could include Pho (soup made from beef stock, spices, noodles and thinly sliced beef or chicken), Bun Cha (grilled pork and noodles), Bun Thang (vermicelli soup with chicken, egg and pork), Da Cua (Crab noodles), Com Chay (rice crackers), Mien Luon (eel soup), Bun Bo (spicy lemongrass noodle soup), My Quang (rice noodles tinted yellow with turmeric and proteins are usually shrimp, pork, chicken, fish),  Pho Kho (dry noodles), Banh Khot (miniature rice pancakes), Goi Cuon (spring rolls), Com Mien Cua (meat with vermicelli soup), Hu Tieu Xao (deep fried seafood, pork and beef with noodles), and Banh Ca Cua (crab meat with rice noodles).



For recipes & links from 1700s to the present visit ww.ThePAMeltingPot.com.
Christine Willard, a native of western Pennsylvania, researches and blogs about the food unique to western Pennsylvania. She currently resides in North Carolina.































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